John Rittmaster on Bybee Pinot Noir
From: John Rittmaster [mailto:john@primawine.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 2:33 PM
Subject: A Very Special Pinot Noir from the Russian River
2005 Bybee Pinot Noir, Green Valley Estate, Russian River Valley $55 NET
Limited Availability
Michael Verlander, PRIMA’s founder and proprietor of DuMOL, called me the other morning raving about a wine he’d recently enjoyed. Some new friends he’d made who are farming a vineyard in the Green Valley portion of the Russian River had shared it with he and Janet over a collaborative dinner. Michael told me that I’d be making a big mistake if I didn’t contact Shaun Bybee right away and get her down to Walnut Creek with a bottle of her family’s Pinot Noir to try. I’ve known Michael for 14 years and know better than to doubt his instincts when it comes to wine. This turned out to be a phone call I’m glad I made.
Shaun and her husband, the renowned photographer Gerald Bybee (pronounced Bai Bee) have done everything right in creating their organically farmed Pinot Noir vineyard situared in the very cool Green Valley region, near Sebastopol. For several years they contentedly sold fruit to the likes of Lynmar and Patz & Hall, but the sheer quality of the fruit of the past few years encouraged them to bottle some of their own. To make the wine, they chose Suzanne Hagins, a protégé of Pascal Marchand in Pommard and Littorai’s Ted Lemon. Their collective strategy was to let the vineyard shine and eschew the trend towards later harvesting and exaggerated flavors, making a wine that weighs in at a mere 13.9% alcohol and emphasizes purity over power. The bright Green Valley acidity pushes forth a galaxy of exotic Pinot Noir aromas and flavors that are unmistakably Russian River. Here is all the sandalwood, cinnamon, tangerine peel and cherry candy you could possibly ask for on a lacy, elegant, yet persistent Pinot Noir frame. Were we impressed? We’re voting with our pocketbooks. Only 210 cases were produced.
Extraordinary Pinot Noir from a small family operation doing things the right way.
You’ll be hearing more about them.